Last month’s Christie’s auction of “The Collection of Sir Elton John: Goodbye Peachtree Road” produced some surprising results. Silver platform boots fetched $94,500. A leopard Rolex Daytona sold for $176,400. But something unexpected happened when several Chopard pieces crossed the block: they commanded serious attention and strong prices.
The standout was a yellow gold Chopard Imperiale chronograph, set with sapphires and diamonds. It wasn’t subtle. It was exactly the kind of watch that makes you remember why timepieces can be thrilling. This ornate chronograph raised a question many collectors have been asking: why does the market overlook vintage Chopard?
Why the Auction Matters
Christie’s sale included multiple Chopard timepieces from Elton John’s personal collection. Each piece reflected his bold aesthetic: gem-set cases, unconventional shapes, and designs that rejected quiet luxury. One watch featured a large diamond skull motif. Another showcased the Imperiale’s signature cabochon-set lugs, inspired by Napoleonic columns.
These weren’t safe choices. They were statement pieces from a collector who understood that watches could be theatrical. The strong hammer prices suggested something important: serious buyers recognize value beyond the usual suspects.
The Perception Problem
Chopard occupies an unusual position in the watch world. The brand built its reputation on high jewelry, which means many collectors categorize it as a jeweler first and watchmaker second. This ignores some critical facts.
Chopard produces its own in-house L.U.C movements, respected by horologists for their finishing and technical execution. The problem is that this horological credibility often gets buried under the brand’s stronger identity as a jewelry house.
This perception gap creates an interesting dynamic if you’re looking to sell a Chopard watch. Their technical merit often surprises buyers who initially dismissed the brand, which can work in your favor when finding the right collector.
Jewelry Watches Worth a Second Look
Chopard created some extraordinary pieces during the 1970s and 1980s. This era produced experimental designs across the industry: amorphous shapes, stone dials, and jewelry-watch hybrids that pushed boundaries.
A yellow gold bangle wristwatch from 1972 demonstrates the brand’s ability to merge function with ornament. Another example from 1978 pairs coral and onyx in a cuff design that feels refined rather than excessive. The gem-set snake watches from this period were feminine without being delicate.
The Imperiale Line
Launched in 1994, the Imperiale line represented Chopard’s interpretation of 1990s luxury. The chronograph models featured diamond pavé and sapphire cabochons on every lug. These watches demanded attention and made no apologies for it.
Collectors sometimes dismiss pieces like this as too ornate. But there’s real craftsmanship in these watches. The gem-setting requires significant skill, and the chronograph movements perform reliably. A vintage Chopard watch from this era offers something rare: individuality.
Paris-based dealers have noticed growing interest in Imperiale pieces. Prices remain reasonable compared to gem-set watches from other Swiss brands, creating opportunities for collectors who understand quality but want to avoid overpaying for a logo.
Dual Time Models
Chopard produced fascinating multi-timezone watches during the 1970s. The dual time models featured two independent movements side by side. The design statements these watches made were undeniable.
The Quadruple Timezone model took this further, incorporating four separate movements into one case. These pieces were exploring what a watch could be when design took priority over convention.
One rare version was produced for Kutchinsky in London. Only around 20 pieces were made, featuring a massive 46mm x 24mm case. The play of textures on the case and the proportions of the various dials made each one distinctive.
If you own one of these multi-timezone Chopards, connecting with vintage watch buyers who understand their significance can make all the difference when you decide to sell.
The St. Moritz Story
How It Started
Chopard introduced the St. Moritz in 1980, though it wasn’t announced until Basel 1982 and didn’t reach stores until late 1983. The watch represented Chopard’s entry into luxury sports watches, taking inspiration from the Swiss ski resort town.
This was Chopard’s attempt at a lifestyle product with youth appeal. The St. Moritz marked a shift toward stainless steel sports watches, acknowledging the dominant market trend of the early 1980s.
Different Versions
The original St. Moritz came in three versions: stainless steel, two-tone steel and yellow gold, and solid yellow gold. The integrated bracelet design echoed other sports watches of the era, but the bezel shape distinguished it from competitors.
Later iterations became more experimental. Chopard produced gem-set versions with diamonds and colored stones. One version featured full skeletonization, reportedly executed by Armin Strom. These skeleton models maintained the distinctive bezel design.
The Rainbow Version
In 1984, Chopard launched a St. Moritz Rainbow variant set with diamonds and colored gemstones in a graduated pattern. This predated the rainbow trend that would dominate high-end watchmaking decades later.
These rainbow-set pieces show that Chopard wasn’t following trends. They were participating in the same design conversations as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget. The difference was market perception, not manufacturing quality.
What Makes Them Valuable
Collectors who focus on traditional Swiss brands miss an opportunity with used Chopard watches. The same buyers who celebrate the unusual shapes of Cartier or the gem setting of Piaget often overlook identical qualities in Chopard pieces. This creates a pricing discrepancy.
A Chopard classic watch from the 1970s or 1980s typically costs significantly less than a comparable Cartier or Bulgari from the same period. The craftsmanship is equivalent. The materials are identical. The only real difference is brand perception.
For collectors, that perception gap can be an advantage. Those who recognize Chopard’s in-house quality and restrained design language often acquire pieces that feel undervalued today but have room to rise as awareness grows.
Models Worth Finding
Chronometer Pieces
Chopard produced several chronometer-certified models during the 1960s and 1970s. These dress watches featured high-quality movements and elegant cases in yellow or white gold. A Chopard chronometer watch from this era represents serious watchmaking capability, not just jewelry design.
The finishing on these movements meets traditional Swiss standards. Cases show thoughtful proportions and attention to detail.
Stone Dial Watches
Stone dial watches from the 1970s have become increasingly collectible across all brands. Chopard produced several examples using onyx, coral, turquoise, and other materials. These dials created dramatic contrast against gold cases.
A vintage Chopard with a stone dial offers the same aesthetic appeal as a Piaget piece at a fraction of the cost. The execution quality is comparable.
Integrated Bracelet Pieces
The St. Moritz line isn’t the only Chopard model with integrated bracelets. Earlier dress watches and jewelry pieces sometimes featured bracelets that flowed seamlessly from the case. These designs required sophisticated metalworking.
Integrated bracelet models from any era tend to hold value better than watches on leather straps. They represent complete design statements.
Current Market Reality
Second hand Chopard watches remain undervalued relative to their quality and design merit. Collectors looking for distinctive vintage pieces can acquire Chopard watches that would be prohibitively expensive if they carried a Cartier signature.
Current Chopard owners curious about their watches’ heritage often discover that certain vintage models have become quietly collectible. A pre-owned Chopard watch that seemed merely decorative twenty years ago might now appeal to collectors seeking jewelry-watch hybrids from that era.
The Elton John auction demonstrated that high-profile collectors value these pieces. Strong prices at Christie’s suggest the market is beginning to recognize what dealers and informed collectors have known: Chopard produced legitimate watchmaking alongside their jewelry business.
A Broader Shift
Chopard’s growing recognition fits into a larger market shift. Collectors increasingly value individuality over conformity. The same Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster that once seemed essential now feels predictable to many buyers.
Cartier experienced this shift over the past decade. Pieces that seemed frivolous in 2010 now sell for multiples of their original prices. Bulgari has seen similar recognition. Chopard appears positioned for comparable reappraisal.
The question isn’t whether Chopard deserves serious consideration. The auction results and growing dealer interest confirm that the market has already begun shifting. The question is how long prices will remain reasonable before wider recognition drives them higher.
What This Means for Collectors
Elton John’s collection reminded everyone that watches can be expressive and bold without losing substance. His Chopard pieces showed how design and quality can work together to reflect real personality.
The vintage Chopard market still offers something rare: real value. These watches bring character, solid build, and Swiss credibility, often at prices far below brands with louder reputations.
Buyers can find standout Chopard watches through estate sales, consignments, and private sellers. The key is to look past the name and focus on craftsmanship, design, and how well the watch holds up over time.
The next time you come across a vintage Chopard, don’t dismiss it as a jewelry brand’s experiment. Look at the details, the finishing, and the proportions. You might see what Elton John already knew: sometimes the most interesting pieces are the ones most people overlook.